May 21, 2009
And So It Begins.
They say that life's journey is best when shared with those that love you and are loved by you. The next two months won't be embracing that philosophy. It will be much more of a solo journey than anything else. The sharing will come with these missives that I will try and produce on a regular basis. Solo isn't really a bad thing sometimes. There is a motorcycle saying that goes something like this “Sometimes I have to burn through a whole tank of gas before my head is on right”. I interpret that to mean 1 man, 1 bike, and 1 tank of gas and all can be right with the world. We'll see.
18 months ago I got laid off. I considered it my retirement. I'm happy to report that the retirement thing has pretty much set in and I now have the audacity to suggest to Lynda that I take ‘some' time and tour the US, again, and Canada, again – for about 60 days. Her response ? “Where and when?”.So, the planning began in earnest in January of 2009. Google and I became very good friends. I asked questions like “What is there to see in Nevada ?” What are the State Parks in Nevada ?” “Are there any scenic highways / byways in Nevada ?” and I made a list. Of course it didn't stop at Nevada . It went on to Arizona , New Mexico , Utah , Texas – You get the idea. The list wound up being too large to handle and the first round of cuts were made. If I'd seen it before, or any number of other reasons that item was dropped from the list. Eventually I wound up with this rides framework, and the routing began.
The best of plans can only be just that – a plan, Execution of the plan is what matters.
NOT
Here's a peek at ‘The magical mystical plan':
Of course there was also the list of things I needed to get done and of course most everything has costs associated with it (Hey, remember paragraph 1? I'm retired!):
And of course, a ride of this scope requires at least a stab at a budget:
I mean yikes! How much can it cost to ride a motorcycle for 60 days anyway I can tell you that when I finished running the numbers I was a little nervous, It'll all work out. I may have to sell some ones soul though if things go wrong or get really tough.
Finally the planning is all done and I came up with this route – Yeah, I know it's hard to see, but I'll try and include just the daily stuff from now on :
So starting in early March I tore the bike down to do as much preventative maintenance as I could on it. What a challenge that was, but now that it's done I have to admit I'm both please with the results and proud of the work I did.
The days marched away one after one and the more I reviewed the route(s) the more I wanted to make sure I had plenty of time to accomplish the whole thing, so, I set the date of May 21 st to be the day I left. That would be today. I did leave. Lyn and I spent quite a bit of time last night trying to get everything in the trailer, but finally got it done, and at 06:00 the alarm went off and I was ready by 06:40 to ride. Bike warmed up ? Check. Trailer attached? Check. Lights working? Check. GPS ready? Check. A hug and a kiss or two goodbye and I was off. Today was the “Get me out of California day”. This was accomplished by riding on the following highways. I-680, I-580, Ca-120, US-6. For those riders that live in the area it's pretty apparent that I rode from home through Yosemite, across Tioga Pass, Past Mono Lake, and continued on 120 into Benton and then finally into Tonopah, Ut. Where I am currently happy and cool in the Best Western.
The ride itself was uneventful, however I did meet several very interesting folks. While stopped at the Big Oak Flat ranger station for a water break a couple of guys walked over to me and started chatting about the bike and the trailer etc. etc. Really quite nice folks. As I was getting ready to leave one gent asked if I had a cd player on the bike and I said yes, as a matter of fact I do. “Well,” he said, “do you ever listen to audio books?” “No, not really, I love to read, but I much prefer music in my ears than someone reading to me”. He walked over to his vehicle and pulled out a book and gave it to me. Seems he is an author living in Groveland and has lived all over the world and has written about it. “Here” he said “It's for your reading enjoyment, please tell me how you like it, there's an email address inside”. The book is still outside in the bike so I can't tell you at the moment the name of the author or the title, but will try and remember to bring it in with me tomorrow and scan it. So that was pretty cool.
I headed up to Crane Flat and turned left onto Tioga Pass Road , and immediately got stuck behind a motorhome:
I think he saw me behind him with my camera taking pictures of him because he finally did the right thing and took a turnout after passing way too many of them.
I Stopped a number of times to enjoy the falls, creeks, lakes and views.
Touloume creek I think And Your's truly J .
For all of the Motorcycle Riders on Distribution – The Road:
Another of me – Half Dome in the Background.
Tenya Lake :
I have more, but 7 pages is long enough for one day.
About 340 miles for the day - à I'm in touring mode.
Tomorrow, The extraterrestrial Highway, Cathedral Gorge State Park , The most boring highway in Utah , and my first camping night in Cedar City , Ut. Depending on how the day goes I may try and run up to Cedar Breaks. Stay tuned.
Cheers.
Jim
May 22, 2009
Full Campground
I'm in Cedar City , Utah . It's cold. It's about 7:40 on Friday. It's the Memorial Day Weekend Friday. I'm in my first of lot's and lot's of KOA campgrounds. I'm stunned, truly stunned at the number of folks here, not only the 80 kids and their family's and their associated relatives that will now occupy the remaining 12 tent campsites in the park – but also at the line of RV's and 5 th wheelers that are lined up waiting for a spot. Seems that Cedar City is the place to be.
I started off this morning with an excellent Best Western Breakfast – they had eggs, sausage, hash browns, bagels, cereal, waffles – you name it and it was pretty much there. The news outside on the bike wasn't quite as good. As I was loading the trailer up I noticed that the tires were looking pretty thread bare – this was not the first time I've seen them so, nor will it be the last I'm sure. I decided to continue on into Cedar City , and monitor their wear as the day progressed. My planning is for these trailer tires to last at least 4,000 miles between changes – 5,000 if I'm lucky. So far they only had about 3,000 on them, so not so good.
I rode out of Tonopah on US-6 - and by the way, yesterday I said Tonopah was in Utah – Opps, Lynda showed me the error of my typing. I'm not that good of a rider to actually relocate Tonopah from Nevada to Utah . It's still firmly in place where it's always been. Just to show you that all of the rodes in Nevada aren't arrow straight the picture on the left shows one of the many challenges of today's ride” - J
About 80 miles out of Tonopah highway 375 intersects and I turned right heading for Rachel , Nv . And area 51 and all of those wierdo's from outer space.
Say Hi to ET's brother.
And his friends:
And the ship they arrived on:
I'm not too sure how they all arrived at the same place at the same time in such a little ship, but the owners of the ‘remains' swear it's all true.
They even have extra parking for future arrivals. Now if your not a believer of Area 51 – well, you should be. You won't find a more desolate, dry, unforgiving place to live, work, play OR ride through anywhere. Understand this, there is no gas from Tonopah all of the way to the 375 and the entire length of the 375. I finally bought gas in Caliente.
After departing my new friends in Rachel I proceeded to where 375 ends at us-93. I turned right and headed for the Cathedral Gorge State Park in Nevada . US-93 is designated as a scenic byway in this part of Nevada . At first I wasn't too impressed, but there were a final 5 miles that were pretty spectacular.
The pictures don't do it any real justice, Specially these small ones. The road was full of nice sweepers and amazing rock formations. Ride it sometime – You'll see.
As I mentioned I bought gas in Caliente and then proceeded on to the State Park. Now that I've been there I'd equate it to a lesser park. Worth seeing once, but probably not twice, unless you were a real geology nut….
Again – hard to see in these small photos, but the geologic erosion going on is pretty spectacular, and the resulting formations do indeed look like a very large cathedral,
The ride East into Utah was fast!! I loved the 70 MPH speed limit! The trailer's tires didn't. I was pretty much convinced that I'd have a flat before I ever made it to Cedar City . My luck held out and I made the final 84 miles into town with all trailer tires full of air, although quite bald. I ran across a Goodyear auto shop on the outskirts of town. I pulled in and an eager employee ran out and greeted me with a “How may I help you” – soon to be followed by a “No, sorry, we don't stock 8” tires. But, Yes, there are several more shops just up the street – you might try them”.
Next shop (Just up the street) – “Nope, don't have those in stock, sorry”.
Next, Next shop (Just up the street) – “Nope, I have the ‘wheel barrow' ones. But they won't work for this application.”.
Last stop (well ‘maybe' Wallmart ‘might' have them). “Nope, computer say's I don't have them, but let me check just to make sure…..” “Ok, you want them both??”
“Yes, please”.
30 minutes later I'm huffing and puffing my camping gear out of the freshly tired trailer to my tent KOA Campsite. – There is no ‘on site' parking. This place is obviously designed with family's in mind – not us old solo motorcycle riders that would be a lot happier if they could park next to the campsite. Oh well.
After spending about 45 minutes schlepping my gear from my bike to the site and setting it all up I spent another 45 minutes trying to get my internet connection to work. It didn't. I finally got some help and found out that the ‘network' I was connecting to (The one that had the best signal) wasn't for us to use…. Well hell, how was I supposed to know that? Oh Well. Internet is now working – slowly.
So, did you know that this was Memorial Day Weekend???? I didn't. I thought I had a whole week before the holiday… Boy was I surprised when I tried to make reservations in Aridzona for some of the sites there – no rooms – no availability ANYWHERE. OH WELL!! It's an adventure!
I finally was able to make expensive reservations at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon for tomorrow night, and a Best Western in Cottonwood , Az (Sedona Area) on Sunday night. I'm not too sure what kind of internet availability I'll have for the next couple of day's, but rest assured, that as soon as I can I'll get the next missive out.
As I mentioned I talked to Lynda a bit ago -- as you can see from the above picture (Which was taken before she called) the campground looks a bit busy – it's too dark to take a picture now, the campground is packed (All of this happened while I sat here composing this) – there isn't room to move, and I'm pretty sure if someone farts I'll hear it.
Heck – It's an adventure!!
Cheers! And Till next.
May 24, 2009
The Terrible To's Two's Too's ?
Well , where did I leave off with ya'all?. Seems to me I was fighting with the Cedar City , Ut. KOA's internet connection trying to send out the last blog. As I was fighting to get the last blog out - the campground continued to fill. You saw my early picture – this is what I woke to on Friday Morning:
Now that's just too darn many tent's housing too many kids from too many schools doing a two day field trip to Zion Canyon. What were they studying?? Can't say for sure, but they seemed to be having a good time.
I also ran into a group out of Sonora when I went through Yosemite that was up there for two day's studying Glaciers, Morains, and how Yosemite Valley was formed. Well, they too wanted their picture taken in front of the falls. Any way there were a lot of teenagers running around the campground. So, Cedar City – I've stayed there several times the last several years, this was the first time camping at the KOA. Why, oh Why would any sane person put tent camping NEXT to the I-15 business loop for the town? I had a very hard time sleeping with all of the highway noise. Not to mention you can't park your vehicle next to your tent spot. What a hassle schlepping all of your gear into and out of your site. Let this be a warning. Cedar City KOA and Tent Camping DO NOT belong together.
Ok. I feel better.
I finally got all packed up about 7:30 and started out. Well, the first order of business was getting some push'o'lini. This was accomplished pretty easily. I was all set to head on down the road to Zion when “what to my wondering eyes should appear?” Why, it's a shiny IHOP. One of their stunning 2000 calorie breakfasts sure sounded good so I made the detour.
Nearly an hour later (My order got stuck behind a ‘big order from the back room') I left the restaurant.
I felt even better.
This seems to be lending itself to a two, too or to theme…
I-15 for a short while and then onto UT-9 for the ride into Zion . What can I say? Every time I approach this park I have a smile on my face. You can tell, just by how the scenery is changing that you are entering a very special place.
The ride into and through the park has been documented several times so I won't attempt to do so again. Just let me say that this is a very special place and if you haven't yet experienced it then put it on you own personal ‘Bucket List'. Because I wasn't planning on touring the valley, electing to simply ride through the very nice Park Ranger routed me into the fast track lane - after I showed him my Parks Pass.
Here's a couple of the Pics I took on this trip though this very special park:
And then there was the Flora to see…
And, Finally for you ‘Roadies' out there – Here's the Zion Road , as of 05/23/2009:
The bike and I continued on and eventually picked up US-89. There were Bikes everywhere. Seriously. I must have waved at least 100 times and probably closer to 300. If ever there was a lesson to be learned it's this à When there's that many bikes on the road it's a holiday. So, yes Tim, someone did try and tell me that ‘this' was the weekend, and no Alan, there's more important things to be concerned with. The wingnut is not part of this equation, play nice or I'll have to take steps J
As previously mentioned I tend to depend on my GPS to get me where I need to go. I'll often tell it to take me to a spot with the caveat' of ‘don't use any primary highways, and don't make any u-turns, and please ‘try' to avoid dirt roads'.
Well my ride into the North Rim of the Grand Canyon was punctuated by my passing, at a high rate of speed the intersection of alt-89 and Az-67 into the North Rim. Some 8.5 miles beyond said intersection I was advised to turn right onto Burman road. HUMMMMMM that right was a dirt road with recent muddy tire tracks and a sign that said “Don't drink and drive”. As I began looking for a spot to make a u-turn I had to chuckle – someone was -- either drinking, or driving a vehicle capable of negotiating this road, but, I was certain, it wouldn't be my Goldwing.
Once having negotiated the route back to the proper intersection I followed light traffic into the park. This next picture is for personal history à ‘Honey? I made it to the North Rim!”. Every time the bike and I make it to a fresh entry point, or to a whole new, never before seen spot I try and take a picture of the event. This was one of them. To think, I've been down Alt-89 at least 4 times, and to my shame have never before today made that turn onto 67. That won't happen again.
Now. I think one has to wonder what makes the North Rim so special. I'll offer my thinking here. Feel free to offer yours. Think of the time it takes to get from I-40 or I-15 to the Grand Canyon . Then think of the time it would take if you wanted to NOT ride on a freeway. Enter US-89 and US-89A. These roads were meant for motorcyclists.
Ahhh – The sad news is that no one told the Park Service to expect us. Heres's a fact or two. There's about 300 rooms available at the North Rim and there is also camping, but there is only about 400 Parking spaces available and there are WAY more than 400 visitors to the park each day. Once in the park it was a nightmare trying to figure out where it was safe to park the bike, and then, once parked schlepping my body (in full gear and at 8600 feet) to the lodge to check in and get a room key, then schlepping to the room and removing enough gear to enable me to slowly (remember I'm walking around in the stratosphere here) walk back to the bike and pick and choose which pieces of luggage would be making it into the room for the night. Let me tell you. It was pitiful. I at least got my cell phone, computer (not that it did any good) and my toothbrush and toothpaste before collapsing on the bed begging for relief of the dreaded oxygen starvation my body was suffering from. Still though, the room was a very classy log cabin (it even had a bathroom!).
But it was small enough that even my wide angle lens couldn't capture it.
I finally made it out to see the sights of the North Rim. What a treasure this part of the Park is. You get to be so much ‘up close and personal' with the Geology. I took way too (see there's that word again) many pictures to share with you all here. But wanted to share these several ‘general' ones. I also wanted to say that if you ever make it to the North Rim you really really really need to plan on spending a night there. It's magical. Jaw droppingly beautiful at sunset, and the Staff is universally top notch. Here's what I saw about 4:00.
That last one is from the lobby of the lodge. For those of you that have participated in our annual rides up to Yosemite for Lunch at the Awahanee Hotel you will have experienced that huge window overlong the Yosemite Falls . Well, here is a lodge that offers it's visitors a comfortable inside view of the whole canyon, as well as spectacular outside venues.
I'm going to close this message with some of the sunset shots I took. I want to come back. I really wish there was a way that I could include real, vibrant images of what I saw in this email, but the software diminishes everything in an effort to make it efficient.
And you thought you'd get by without a pic of your's truly ….
Lynda, Please send the Anti Aging Crème to Chris and Kim J .
Ok – 7 pages, not bad for already old memory… just wanted to send a final one of the lodge.
May 25, 2009
Loops and Slots
I sent everyone a picture of my log cabin accommodations at the North Rim. What the picture doesn't show is that each building is actually two accommodations. Both identical, but both housed in the same physical space. So, after an amazing evening of watching the sun set over the Grand Canyon , and an equally frustrating time spent trying to get a connection, but it was a very quiet time too; I finally went to bed about 9:00. Imagine then my surprise at being woken at midnight to the delighted laughter of the 2 ladies (no, Lyn I didn't meet them – just heard them) in the room next to mine. Interesting. I don't think they know I'm there. Perhaps a trip to the bathroom will serve notice – hell all of the floors squeek! They did.
About 1:30 I awoke again, this time to the most horrific snoring I've ever heard. Just goes to show you that someone else CAN snore louder than me. We continued the battle of the log cabin snore till about 6:00 when the sound of running water interrupted my favorite dream. The girls were up. Great. I should be too. I should take a shower too, but I'm not. There's no way I could have schlepped the luggage that contained all of the necessaries into the room – so that means a dirty day. Get used to it. I'm on the road, and I'm on two wheels. I did however make use of the facilities and clean up as best I could with a wash cloth and plenty of soap and water.
Now that my personal habits are behind us let's take a look at how I got checked out.
Christine is a lovely lady that works at the North Rim as the manager of the reservationists. She was on duty as I walked boldly up to the counter and said “Checking out please”. Yes, I was in full gear. It would have taken a true idot to not know I was on a motorcycle. So, when she said “Did you ride the Point Royal loop?” I could only look at her dumbly and say – “Is that anything like the Burman Road ?”… “No, No. No. It's the best kept secret of the park. Here let me give you a map.” She then proceeded to tell me that she and her husband just retired, but are ‘working' at the park for fun and the enjoyment of riding new places. They've been riding sidecars for the last couple of years, and she's just new on a Burgman 650 and he's into a new KLR. They are both planning on an extensive trip to Alaska next summer. Damn – the people you meet when you least expect it. Any way the route she suggested was well worth the 90 minuet detour out of the park and is on my list of must do's for the next sunrise and sunset (If I'm so blessed with the chance) of being there again. A pic or two ---. Point Royal, YES it is hard to walk and talk at 8806 feet above sea level – But it isn't impossible!
Ya just ain't gonna see much purdier that that.
And then there was the 15 mile ride out to the Royal Cape . Yes, there is a ½ mile hike (level thank goodness) out to the cape, and some first class views when there.
The ride:
Now that automatically ought to make you want to ride this loop.
And then there's this.
That would be the Angles Window. You can hike out onto the top for a stunning 360 degree view. The sad part is that you can't see the window anymore!
I can't imagine what it opens onto.
Humm – Perhaps our first view of the mighty Colorado from the North Rim???
Better shots à
One more.
In case you haven't noticed. None of today's photo's have been corrected by software. I'm hoping that the above pic will prove to be one of the better ones.
Ok, I am committed to 2 things, a sunrise, and a sunset along the Royal Cape . Perhaps Rich and I can do this when we go to Sedona in October.
I followed 67 out of the park and finally fueled up at the Cheveron station at 67 and Alt 89. Man oh Man what a popular place that was today.
Ok – I get it.. This is Memorial Day Weekend.
There's gonna be Bikes. There's gonna be traffic. There's gonna be attitude.
None of'em did the route I just did, and None of'em did the Antelope Slot Canyon .
I chatted with a fellow from Georgia . He was 30 day's into his ride, and was looking for camping, and a route through the North Rim. I recounted my story of no room, no campsite, no nothing but did offer him my early loop route. Heck of a nice guy, and wish we could have met in other circumstances and I hope to hear how he made out.
So, where too?
Page was my choice. And the Antelope Canyon adventure.
This probably sounds easier than it is. I'd like you to imagine a fast ride into Flagstaff , and an equally fast ride into (onto?) the Verde Canyon Railroad. You may have guessed it. I'm going to the Antelope Canyon Adventure in Page, Az.
All I can say is WOW. If Walt Disney were alive today he would have figured out a way to not only make this into an amazing adventure but also have provided the vehicle for success these guides and businessmen have worked very hard for.
Let me introduce Leonard to you:
He is a photographer. An amazing Photograper. He sought me out on numerous occasions so he could shoot the exact same shot a magazine, or other publication shot.
However, before we get to Leonard and his best of the best tour we need to talk about the ride into Page.
Alt-89 will take you past the Vermillion Cliffs, as well as through the Marble Canyon . It will take you past the Cliff Dwellers, and even past Burman Road . You are passing the heartland of the Navaho. There's 500.000 strong on the reservation and a ‘whole lot more (according to Leonard)' that have left the reservation to make their own way. I salute them. Imagine living is such a magnificent place.
I rode past the exact same Vermillion Cliffs and through the self same marble canyon that I've been through before and they never fail to impress. This Alternate US-89 had to have been built with motorcyclists in mind. I arrived in Page just about lunch time, stopped at a Quiznos Sub Shop and had a sammich and then rode the half block to the Antelope Canyon tour company. Bought my ticket for the 1:00 tour and was soon riding shotgun in the cab with Leonard and about 18 others riding in the back of his open air 4 wheel drive Ford truck. Leonard navigated his hated Ford (Says he's a Chevy fan) through Downtown Page and into the Slotted ‘ Antelope Canyon '. Even though, ‘years ago we had Antelope here and big horned sheep there, but today we only have 2 rabbits and an old turkey ‘here'' he says as he points off to his left and none of the traffic, stop lights, tourists, or vehicles stuck in sand up to their axles seemed to bother him at all Oh, you would have had to have been there to really appreciate the fact that we were pretty much stuck in the sand, and that the 4 wheeled drive did eventually get us out.
Ok, enough talking – here's a pic or two from today's tour (Recommended!)
Slotted Canyon Definition --- this is it.
I'm just going to add pics and see if you agree or not.
If you have ever wondered what a wave would look like in the natural world I think this would probably be close. What I want you to remember is that this site is wholly owned by the Navajo's and that they have done a remarkable job in presenting their history through this site.
Hat's off to Leonard. You would do well to ask for him. Specially if you need some artistic help with all of those amazing shots you see on the internet.
I have more of the Antelope Canyon -- I'll share when I have some time, and if you have the interest.
I'm almost at the end of page 8. And I'm thinking I'm pretty much caught up.
Time for bed.
Tomorrow –
Railroads, and Railroad food!!
I'd like to leave you with this final tought…..
“When you wonder ‘why' long enough learning soon follows.”
See you all soon….
Cheers!
Can you find the Coyote?
May 26, 2009
Droaning
“Hi, it's me.”
Oh, hi. So tell me about your day”
It was? You did? Really? No shit?”
Yeah, and tomorrow I need to ride into Las Cruces , New Mexico .”
How many miles is that?”
512”.
Really???”
No Shit”.
So went the phone call between Lynda and I last night. There can't possibly be anything worse than riding a Goldwing down I-17 to the I-10 all of the way through Phoenix AND Tucson EXCEPT being stuck on a freeway that is shut down for a medi-vac accident 20 miles from your final destination.
'm in Las Cruces . I'm fed, clean, and cool (well air conditioned anyway).
took exactly one picture today. It was of a very lonely Goldwing in front of a very closed Heart Attack Grill. I was too early (Figures), but as I'm learning more and more on this ride, there is a reason for everything. Seeing as though Rich and I are coming back down to Sedona in October (Before the ride to Marks) we ought to be able to pick up the Grill, as well as Monument Valley and hopefully make another trip up to Antelope Canyon .
Ok – That is as exciting as today got. If ya got another one to share with the distribution please feel free to fill in the blank à and send it out. It'll keep us entertained.
The only thing worse than riding a Goldwing down I-17 to I-10 via Phoenix and Tucson into Las Cruces , New Mexico IS --- __________________________________________.
No Shit, Seriously.
Tomorrow I'm hoping for much much better with the Billy the Kid Trail, The Land of Enchantment Scenic Byway, and the Jade Trail. Time will tell J .
May 27, 2009
Highways – Byways- Sand – Salt – Rivers and Mountains
How the heck does one accomplish all of that in one day? Good question, I'm actually not sure I did. Let me see how my memory of today actually works out. I got up this morning at 6:00 and was on the road by 7:00. But, first, do you remember yesterday when I mentioned that a guy from Detroit was riding his dad's Honda 750 out to San Diego ? Well he got a room next to mine and I took a pic or two of it this morning – I discovered that it was an automatic!!
Lynda – any interest??
Ok, So the route took me up US-70 toward the White Sands missile test range. It was quite a nice 4 lane highway with very light traffic. As I was riding along it dawned on me that I was indeed riding into history. Today would find me riding along the ancient Salt Mission Trail as well as the more current history of the USA 's Atomic Bomb development and testing . US 70 eventually put me on NM-54, but not before a very interesting visit to the White Sands National Monument . Gypsum Sand dunes are what give the Testing Grounds and indeed the whole area it's name. The picture on the left is the road leading into the monument. Way cool!
New Mexico 's version of a snow slide. These kids would struggle to the top of the sand dune, plop down their slide and jump in it and slide down to the bottom.
As I drove through the 8 mile long loop there were numerous spots to part and participate in this activity. Everyone was so friendly too. Seems that this is a popular pastime for the familys at Holloman Ariforce Base.
Beautiful in its desert sort of way. I was impressed.
As I mentioned US-70 soon dumped me onto NM-54 which routed me through the heart of New Mexico along the Salt Missions Byway. The Salt Missions dates to the very early times, as the Indians would gather, and trade salt (considered a necessity) all of the way from El Paso through Santa Rosa . Today the arid desert gradually gives way to ranches and farm land. The salt of yester year nothing but memories housed in small museums in the equally small towns along the route. The route was not scenic, but it was restful – remote – quiet – and interesting. It also follows the old alignment of US-66 for a fair portion as it nears its Northern end in Tijerns, Nm.
The further North I rode the more threatening the sky became. Needless to say my camera got put away and I proceeded with caution. I could see lightning strikes and was becoming quite concerned when the trusty GPS advised me to get on I-40 and head West for 20 miles. I gladly obliged. Twenty minutes later I turned off onto Nm-14 which is the Turquoise Scenic Byway.
New Mexico is full of Scenic Byways. When I was planning this trip I had a hard time deciding what I wanted to see, and now that I'm about ready to head back out of state and see what Texas has in store for me I have to say that while New Mexico does have some very pretty areas it also would have a hard time competing with other states. The Turquoise Byway was a very nice 2 lane highway that meandered through some scenic foothills. The foothills are not forested, nor are they grass lands. They are rocky and full of scruffy scrub. Pretty in their own way. As I was riding along I rode through a town that I swear was either the model for, or the actual town in Wild Hogs. The Town's name was Magrid! And, had ‘the' bar, ‘the' restaurant, and ‘the' hotel… and was an out and out tourist town. No, I didn't take any pictures of it. Should have – perhaps when we go see Mark in Oct. we can route through it again and see if you agree…. I'm pretty sure the Turquoise Byway is so named for the numerous shops along the way that sell the stuff, as opposed to any mines or natural occurances of it.
Here's a couple of shots from along the way.
Nm-14 put me into Santa Fe where yet another of the Land of Enchantments highways awaited me. This time I was routed onto US-84. This highway negotiated it's way through the treacherous Santa Fe traffic. Just a word about the traffic in this Capitol City à Stay on your toes – Period.
US-84 continued to have a significant amount of traffic as it wound it's way out of Santa Fe, and past several Indian Casinos. It split off to the left toward Los Alamos and Nm-68 picked up and guided ‘us - the daring' deeper into the Northern Mountains toward today's goal of Taos . And, more rain. And a surprise. I didn't know that the Rio Grand flowed along this route. Very pretty.
I arrived in Taos 4:30 local time – in the rain, but no thunder and no lightning. Best Western looked really good, but the D@m internet is really bad – Hope to be able to get today's message out. We'll see.
I'm planning on riding deeper into the mountains tomorrow and see what there is to see before turning South again and look for Texas . I heard it was a really big state so I'm guessing it shouldn't be too hard to find.
So, I guess I did the sand, the highways, the byways, the mountains and the water in several forms.
May 30, 2009
The Alamo
I think we all have lists of places we'd like to see, or see again or things that range from “have to get done “ to “wouldn't that be nice”. The Alamo has been that for me since I was a little boy hearing about how the brave men that died defending it would become the hallmarks of “Remember the Alamo ”. So, when planning this trip I wanted to make sure I included San Antonio , Tx . as one of my stops. My brother in Law Dan has some of his wife's family in the area and has visited before and told me that it was well worth visiting. I agree.
This morning it took me a while to break down my campsite in San Angelo . I'm getting faster at setting stuff up, and even taking stuff down, but it's still no where near as fast as checking into and out of a motel. I discovered something last night that will be remedied tomorrow; in developing my packing list for this trip the one thing (well there's several others, but aren't as important) that I forgot to add to the stack of items that needed to be stowed on the bike…. A towel. As I was heading to the showers last night it dawned on me that there was no way to dry myself off once after finishing the ritual cleansing. I went back to my campsite and contemplated the unfairness of it all.
I need to make a run to Wallmart – soon. I'm sure that it won't be long before I'm asked to leave restaurants and other establishments where human beings gather.
I made a surprisingly easy exit out of San Angelo , and was soon cruising down US-87's 4 lanes of very sparse traffic. 71 miles later and I had in fact entered the famed Texas Hill Country. Ask any Texan – It has some of the best riding anywhere. Well, except California, Oregon, Washington, Colorado, New Mexico, Wyoming, Montana,… once again, I think you get the picture.
It was still quite nice though.
For the roady's reading this – do you see that vanishing perspective point? Those are hills. I even encountered curves today – but I was able to keep count of them on one hand.
As I was riding along I was impressed with the little yellow flowers blooming along side the road. After spending the last several day's in the arid deserts of Aridzona, New Mexico and Nevada where all I saw was this years Yucca plants blooming, these little yellow and black ones were a nice change. This is NOT to detract in any way from the large number of Yucca's along the way that were blooming in Texas, just like they were in the other states.
I did eventually arrive in San Antonio . This is a big city. BIG. Lot 's of people. Military town. Lot 's of Police Officers looking for malcontents and other law breakers – specially once out of the downtown tourist areas. My GPS led me to tonight's campground flawlessly.
As I was checking in, and by the way I have to give kudo's to the folks that run these KOA Campgrounds. They have been, without exception, some of the nicest folks who are very very proud of their camping offering I've ever met. Some really nice people. Now, that being said, you'all should know that I've not camped since the kids were little – and then it was usually up in Yosemite . It is different, towing and stowing all the gear every day. Makes the motel days all the more special. Anyway, as I was mentioning, Really nice folks who's response to my query of ‘How hard is it to drive to the Alamo ?” was “Don't drive, take the bus, it's just outside our gates and it only cost's a buck and ten cents.”
So I did.
What they didn't say that I should expect the 95 degree temp and the 90 percent humidity to be replaced by a bus that would be operating at nearly freezing temperatures. Don't know what was more difficult – the cold, the heat, or the humidity. At the moment I'm voting for the heat and humidity.
Me and the Alamo . Yeah, it scares me too Lol.
The Alamo is a museum today. It's history is documented very well throughout, and while visitors can't take photos inside they are allowed to browse the many exhibits and read about its famous history. Today there was a wedding being held at the Alamo Chapel. I didn't take a picture of the festivities (I felt silly enough looking at the proceedings), but did appreciate why a bride would like to be married in such a historic place, and on it's beautiful grounds.
A couple of blocks away is the river walk -- Talk about a brilliant marketing plan – and execution. Just a couple of blocks away from the Alamo the city has developed the famous River Walk. Down off of street level and follows the San Antonio River as it meanders through town. The area is full of restaurants and shopping, and Tourists.
Genius!
It took me a while to figure out what bus line I needed to get on to get back to the KOA Campground, but once I got the right answer and waited patiently for the bus to arrive all was good. I had to laugh though because the bus driver that took me back to the campgrounds was the same one that took me into town. Wonder what those odds are.
Tomorrow – more heat, more humidity, further south, looking for the Gulf of Mexico . It's an adventure.
Cheers!
May 31, 2009
South, East, a little more South and then North.
Or, when does a picture define the price of admission.
I got the campsite packed up in 40 minutes this morning! I AM getting better at this – although it still seems painfully slow. Knocking stuff down and wrapping it up does take some time, but getting in all loaded and packed into the trailer, now that's an exercise.
The road out of San Antonio was quiet. I got gas at a little Mexican run Gas Station just a couple of miles from the campground. I had noticed it the day before as it had several squad cars from the San Antonio PD parked in the lot. Couldn't figure it out till this morning when, as I was pumping gas this young lady pulls into the store and gets out wearing a pair of “Come ‘do me' pumps, tight (and I mean tight) short shorts and a ‘Oh Boy' top. I didn't take a picture as I was so surprised that it didn't dawn on me till it was to late. Sometimes being slow on the up-take has it's drawbacks.
OH. I get it – now. That probably explained the reason for the motel behind the gas station. San Antonio is, after all a military town at heart.
The I-37 got me out of town - soon to be followed by US-181 which I followed South for quite a long way. One hears a lot about the Texas Hill Country, and from what I've seen on this trip I'd have to agree that there is much to be said for it. I would like to suggest to my riding buddies that are coming back down to this area in October to see Mr. Kratz that we encourage Mark to work some magic and find the roads and vistas that the US-Highways weren't doing.
Hills in the front of me.
Must still be in Western Texas .
There were Hills behind me.
BUT
There was plenty of unplanted farm land in between.
Things got a little interesting around Sinton Texas where the Great State of Texas has built a new bypass that is unknown to my GPS Maps. Couple that with the fact that this new bypass also needed to demolish a bridge along the most logical route from where the GPS realized it had a problem to where it could fix it and you had me riding back and forth along the same rout several times. Seems to me that Pat M. did that a time or two in Sacramento Old Town .
After negotiating the mine field above things went pretty smoothly as I poked my way East toward the Gulf of Mexico and the anticipated sun and sand. Alas, even as I proceeded through Rockport which had billboards proclaiming restaurants, beaches, motels, resorts, camping, and all the thrills associated with a tourist destination all I saw was the signs. YES, I could have taken a turn and proceeded to the beach, or park, or restaurant or…... But, I didn't. As I was riding along I kept asking myself “Should I turn?” The answer was “No. It'll be a direct rout into the ‘attraction' hard to turn around in (with the trailer). Better to keep going and hope for better.
Better didn't happen. Although I was able to get a couple of good shots of the causeway and the Gulf. I think I really need to do more research about the area. Now, that being said, at the end of the causeway in the above picture was – a town (Point Comfort) – it was dedicated to the production of fossil fuels. So, anywhere there is anchorage deep enough the Texans have built a refinery. Not so scenic.
I had originally planned on spending the night tonigh t Freeport Texas . I discovered it too was a very large Oil Refining town, with one motel, which was closed. I wound up in Texas City just a short way outside of Galveston . Tomorrow is another ‘make tracks' day. I'll be exiting Texas after three day of … and entering Louisana for another KOA night before taking a Bayou tour and hopefully finding some Bayou / Cajun cooking!
So, now that I' here in my nice Best Western, after having fed (for the first time) at an Olive Garden, showered, laundry done, and pretty much under control. I'm reflecting on today's ride. I made a bunch of decisions today that affected my perception, and conception of the Gulf Coast . My perception isn't much changed. This is still the Texas Tropics, and there's lots more to be seen than can be seen with a one day drive through. My original conception of today's ride was one more of riding down Highway-1 in Ca. like through Pacifica , Half Moon Bay , and Santa Cruz . That's been altered – a lot.
Cheers!
Continued - Next Month!!